TIRICH MIR (7708m)

This is a chain of peaks. Tirich Mir (Main) is the highest peak in whole of the Hindukush range. The traditional route to the peak passes through Chitral – Reshun and Khosht. There is also a shorter route to the peak. After a two-hour jeep drive on Chitral-Mastuj road one has to take a direct route from Perpish to Barum village and then through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to the peak. This route is, however, recommended for those who have already acclimatized themselves with high-altitude-climbing; otherwise there is a great danger of high altitude sickness.

Tirich Mir Main Peak was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition led by Arne Naess. The other members of the expedition included P. Kvern Berg and H. Berg.

Arne Naess again led the successful Norwegian venture to Tirich Mir East (7,692 meters) in 1964. Two members of the expedition R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir (E).

Tirich Mir West II (7,500meters) was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. The party also climbed an already-climbed Dirgol Zom peak.

Tirich Mir West I (7,487meters) was climbed in 1967 by a Czechoslovak expedition led by Vladimir Smida. The party is stated to have climbed it by the north-west col. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V. Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top.